What Type of Vitamin C is Best?

Vitamin C, both internal and external, is a hot topic in skin care and for good reason. When applied topically, vitamin C accelerates the production of both collagen and elastin, which help keep the skin plump and firm. Topical vitamin C can help prevent premature aging and restore a youthful, smooth appearance to the skin. Having said that, it can be frustrating to buy a vitamin C cream or serum and not see the improvement you’ve been sold.

 

There are around 7 to 8 different types of external vitamin C. How do you know which one to buy and what do the different types do? In this article, we will unpack these different types of vitamin C and go through what each one so you can decide which one is best for your skin type. At the end, I will give my top recommendations for vitamin C skin care products in different price ranges.

 

This is a lot of information, so put on your big girl undies and let’s do this!

 

What is Ascorbic Acid or L-Ascorbic Acid?

 

Ascorbic Acid is by far the most well-known and least stable types of vitamin C. Contrary to popular opinion, it is not the only or most effective type, given current research. Having said that, the quantity of ascorbic acid used in a product, like every other ingredient, is a huge determiner of effectiveness. If a product has a pH of less than four, it’s best for normal skin types. And sensitive skin types look for a pH between 5-7 to avoid irritation.

 

Quantity wise, if the product has 10% ascorbic acid, you will see some brightening of your complexion. With 15-20% of the ingredient, you will notice more cumulative effects. The lower the concentration, the less improvement you will see in your skin, but also the less irritation. Most brands do not put the percentage of ingredients in their marketing, so the best way to figure this out is by looking at the ingredient deck. The higher on the deck an ingredient appears, the more in the product. More on this at the end of the article where I explain what to watch out for.

 

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD)

 

THD is a highly stable form of vitamin C that is considered an analogue of L-ascorbic acid. Enzymes in the skin convert this form of vitamin C to pure vitamin C, or ascorbic acid. However, unlike ascorbic acid, THD is lipid (fat) soluble. THD and ascorbic acid absorb in much the same way, but THD has fewer limitations in that it’s less irritating, stimulates more collagen, and provides potent antioxidant protection by destroying free radicals that cause premature aging of the skin. THD is a wonderful form of vitamin C and is appearing in more and more products with great effect.

 

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

 

Technically, sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a salt, and less potent than l-ascorbic acid. Think of l-ascorbic acid as a ten-pound weight, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate as a five-pound weight, which makes it lighter, less intense, and less irritating. If you have sensitive skin, this is great form of vitamin C, yet you won’t see results as quickly than if you use a more potent form.

 

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

 

Do you have oily skin? Then MAP is the vitamin C for you. One of the most stable vitamin C derivatives, MAP is hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory. Having said that, its absorption rates are not thoroughly researched, and are less than ascorbic acid. Having said that, it’s best used in water-based formulas like aloe vera, and works well with niacinamide and in serums and other skin care treatments. You will sometimes find it mixed in serums with other vitamin c derivatives.

 

Sodium Ascorbate

 

This form of vitamin C falls into the category of mineral salts, and is also a derivative of ascorbic acid. Because it converts into ascorbic acid when applied to the skin, it is less potent and less irritating than a purer form of the vitamin. On the good side, it is very stable when exposed to light and air, unlike more potent forms.

 

Calcium Ascorbate

 

Another mineral salt that is also called Ester C, it plays a role in collagen synthesis, tissue and wound repair, and antioxidant defense. It defends against free radicals, promotes collagen production, reduces fine lines, and eliminates dark spots. It has wonderful hydrating benefits, and the calcium strengthens bones, cartilage and tissues. Lastly, because it has a neutral pH, it is non-irritating.

 

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP)

 

This type of vitamin C when used in skin care is an all-in-one boosting and brightening superstar. It is fat soluble, non-irritating, but stable in light and air. It aids in collagen production, mitigates hyperpigmentation, and improves skins texture. As a tetra ester of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid, it is a clinically proven oil soluble vitamin C derivative that provides superior percutaneous absorption and effectively converts to free vitamin C in the skin. It brightens, reduces UV-induced cell and DNA damage, provides antioxidant functionality, and boosts collagen synthesis. It is incredibly efficacious and the most expensive on our list.

 

Aren’t Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate the Same Thing?

It is often cited that Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP) and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) are two names for the same thing, but this isn’t the case. They indeed have many similarities, including the same molecular weight, but they are each their own unique chemical. ATIP remains in the skin cells up to eighty times longer than L-ascorbic acid and will have as much as four times the effect. It allows for faster absorption, more than ten times the amount of L-ascorbic acid, suppresses UVB-induced skin pigmentation, reduces trans-epidermal water loss, increases skin elasticity and visibly improves skin texture.

What Are My Top 3 Recommendations for Vitamin C Serums in Order of Price Point?

If you haven’t used vitamin C serum before, try The Ordinary Vitamin C Serum. At $7, it’s an inexpensive way to see how your skin reacts to ascorbic acid. But be aware, this product is a suspension, so it can be grainy and irritating, and less efficacious due it’s unadorned formulation. For beginners, though, it’s a great place to start.

For a mid-range serum that uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in a way that is less irritating and can be used daily at night, try Image MD Restoring Youth Serum. With its blend of retinol, glycolic acid, and vitamin C, it is a powerhouse of affordable ingredients and used over several months, you will notice a definite improvement in your skin.

For the most powerful vitamin C serum on the market with 80% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, try Truth Treatments Transdermal C Serum. At $199 it is more spendy and concentrated than most, yet only two drops are needed once a day to see improvement. If you have sensitive skin, I’d go for the more moderate Image MD serum above, but if not, then this product is amazing and the best on the market.

 

Vitamin C is a buzz word in skin care, yet a little knowledge can help you navigate the often-deceptive waters of the skin care industry to find a product that works best for your skin type. Please let me know if you have any questions and happy shopping!