As we are faced with rising inflation and potential recession, how can we effectively invest in skin care, buying the minimal number of products, that will have the greatest positive influence on our skin health? What are the holy grail products of skin care? That is the question I posed to Ben Fuchs, skin care chemist, pharmacist, nutritionist, and creator of Truth Treatments Skin Care. In this interview and article, we cover the top four holy grail skin care products that you need to know about in order to have great skin with the right products.
What Are We Talking About Here?
When we try skin care creams, normally we make decisions on how it feels, smells, and maybe the advertising image of a sixteen-year-old selling the anti-wrinkle cream . (I used to be that model. Cringe 😱.) Truthfully, none of those factors have anything to do with how effective the product is in helping the skin. Most creams sit on the surface layer of the skin, which is actually full of dead skin cells, rather than go to the dermis layer where the cells can be activated and healed. Knowing this, how can we shop with greater fluency? Let’s examine in greater detail what vitamin C does, what to look for, and why it needs to be in your skin care regime.
Vitamin C and vitamin A (retinol) have the capability of moving beneath the stratum corneum into the dermis layer in order to support transformation in the skin. Having said that, you need an oil soluble vitamin C (lipophilic) in order to effectively do this. The holy grail of vitamin C is THDA, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Most companies use l-ascorbic acid and the main difference between the two types is both price and quality. L-ascorbic acid is cheaper, water soluble (it just runs off the skin), and therefore doesn’t have the ability to get down to the dermis layer like oil soluble THDA. For clarity, l-ascorbic acid costs $10 a kilo to THDA’s $800 a kilo! Plus, the average quantity of vitamin C put into serums is around 20%, while Transdermal C Serum contains nearly 80%. Also, the Transdermal C Balm, a moisturizer, contains nearly 70% lipophilic vitamin C, which means that your C serum and moisturizer are having a daily transformative effect to your skin.
Why is This Important?
What exactly does THDA do for the skin that makes it a holy grail ingredient? It is an antioxidant and protects the skin from pollution and free radicals, is a skin lightener for hyper pigmentation and dark spots, strengthens the cells and promotes cell turnover which is why your skin will look so much brighter, stronger and less blotchy when you use it. It promotes collagen and elastin production, boosts skin’s production of natural moisture factors for increased hydration, reduces redness, and reverses signs of ageing. It’s a must have for great skin!
Vitamin A or Retinol
Retinol is the second holy grail ingredient, and for good reason. When applied, it turns into retinoic acid and acts as a replacement for vitamin A lost due to sun exposure. It’s highly stimulating so if you’ve not used retinol before, start with a smaller percentage (like 1%) until your skin gets stronger, then switch to a stronger (like 5%) amount. It’s a skin lightener, encourages cell growth, collagen production, strengthens connective tissue, and helps the skin to secrete its own hyaluronic acid to support a healthy top layer or epidermis.
The third holy grail of skin care are hydroxy acids. There are two types of hydroxy acids; alpha and beta. Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHA’s like glycolic acid, citrus acid, and lactic acid, are water soluble and are made from plants like sugarcane, grapes, and citrus fruits. They are made to exfoliate the surface layer of the skin, a process that stimulates collagen production, improves skin texture, reduces hyperpigmentation and fine lines. Beta hydroxy acids, or BHA’s, are oil soluble, like salicylic acid, and help clear pores, treat and reduce acne, and brighten the skin.
Using acids in skin care products helps exfoliate the skin, reduce pigmentation issues, and electrically activate the cells. In essence, acids turn on cells at the electrical level and help with cell turnover. The lower the pH in the acids, the greater the results and subsequently the irritation, so don’t plan to attend any parties the day after a treatment. This is why having a monthly acid peel with an aesthetician can, in the long run, take years off your face. Used consistently in skin care, you can continually see a brighter and more even skin result.
The fourth holy grail of skin care is ionic minerals. The main way we receive ionic minerals is through our diet. Vegetables like seaweed, kelp, almonds, dark leafy greens like kale, berries, salmon, etc. However, worldwide, the mismanagement of the topsoil has caused much of the nutritional density of such foods to be sadly depleted. Eating organic foods as much as possible will help this, as will taking certain nutritional supplements. In skin care, ionic minerals have an electrical effect on the skin and, used in conjunction with vitamin C, will help to integrate ingredients deeper into the skin and activate the cells more readily. Using Biomimetic Mist with your other Truth Treatments products will provide the topical injection of ionic minerals that your skin craves, and will add to the efficacy of your skin care routine.
No matter what ethnicity or sex you are, all skin from your butt to your under-eye area is the same and has the same needs. Great skin is a result of health, and therefore skin care should be considered a part of your wellness routine. You can use things like Botox to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, but it is a mechanical strategy and doesn’t improve your health or benefit your body, and in fact isn’t preventative at all no matter what the pharmaceutical company says! Instead of simulating health, (and having to go back to the dermatologist every three to four months to the tune of $3-600 per injectable treatment), why not stimulate healthy skin with diet and the exact holy grail products to transform and nutriate your body?
Jane Finch says
I wanted to ask you about collagen as a stand alone product. What are your recommendations about collagen?
Several months ago my skin was looking great and was “elastic” but now I have very fine lines AKA wrinkles in the cheek area and my cheeks are beginning to look hollow. I think I need collagen. I know too that there are big differences between products available. I would like know which one(s) are the most effective. Thank you so much. Jane
Hi Jane! Sorry this took me so long to reply . . .Here is an interview I did with Dr Icenhower on collagen: https://youtu.be/ssbUD3AH6gk On average, take 2.5 to 15g of collagen per day to see improvement. I would head toward the high end of that scale, and be sure to check the sugar content on products. usually the products with the higher collagen amounts don’t taste as good, so you have to mix them with a smoothy. I’d also say that bone broth is an excellent source and easily accessible. I hope this helps and that you are doing well and getting ready for a fun holiday! Suzanne